Pine is a relatively flexible material when in clamps. This means a lot of rip cuts not only for the top but for the rest of the pieces as well. I designed the plan so that nearly every board would be ripped in half. This way I could plane down the top later and not have a knot showing through. I made sure that there was at least a half inch or so of clear material before seeing any knots. As the boards are glued up to form the top the edges are what will be exposed. To make sure that happened I sorted my boards based upon their edges. The top surface is the only surface I want to make sure stays knot and defect free….or as close to that as possible. The first thing to be built for the workbench is the top.
But for now, lets get into the workbench.įor those who are interested, I have a 25 page, detailed set of plans in both metric and imperial units at the bottom of this article. I ended up making just the workbench itself a 20 minute video so adding the vises and cabinet would have made it quite a bit longer. I incorporated three different vises in the design as well as a four drawer cabinet but won’t cover them here. The wood for this workbench cost me about $110. I’m using southern yellow pine for this but any species can be used really.
I designed the entire workbench to be built from 2×10 pine boards. It doesn’t matter if you use nothing but hand tools or if you have access to power tools to make the job go by faster. Over the Christmas and New Years holidays I took some time off from building and settled on a simple but solid design.Īnyone can build this workbench. In my last shop I simply didn’t have the room and in my current shop I put it off several times as other projects would come up and I couldn’t find a long enough span to dedicate to the build.
Like most everyone else who makes projects out of wood, I’ve been wanting a solid top, heavy duty workbench for years.
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